Tiny Code

Tiny Code


USB hubs

Many years ago while working for U.S. Robotics, I developed USB device drivers for a living and learned a fair amount about USB.  The big takeaway from that experience is I'm disappointed that Firewire didn't win the external bus contest.  It's a much better designed bus.

One of the necessities for using USB is a hub since few computers include enough USB ports for anything other than the least demanding user.  Since this is the case, it pays to understand a bit about USB hubs since you'll probably need one.

First off, there are multiple flavors of USB - 1.x, 2x, and the recent 3.X.  The key difference as far as users are concerned is the speed.  So the first concern would be to purchase a USB hub which supports the port on your computer.  Unless you've got a fairly recent computer, chances are you've got the USB 2.x flavor.  There is some degree of backwards compatibility so you could theoretically get a USB 1.1 hub but USB 1.x was so slow it's not useful for connecting anything except a mouse or keyboard.

The tricky part comes in choosing which type of power you want your hub to have.  Like most things in USB, there are multiple choices.  You can get a bus powered hub which will derive all its power from the port it's connected to or you can choose a self powered hub which needs an external power supply (AKA wall wart) to power it.  If you don't read any further, take this bit of advice - Never choose a bus powered hub!  To explain why, we'll need a little background about how USB distributes power.

The USB 2.x standard states that USB hubs (and even the ports on the back of your computer are connected to a hub) have to supply 5 volts and up to 500 milliamps (Ma) to each port.  Most likely the ports on the back of your computer offer the full 500 Ma (although a few forward thinking manufacturers offer higher current for those devices which require it).  Worst case if you plug your newly purchased USB bus powered hub with 4 ports into a port on your computer, that new hub will only have 500 Ma to power itself as well as to distribute to its 4 "downstream" ports.  A rule of thumb is that the hub itself takes 100 Ma leaving only 100 Ma for each of its 4 ports.  If you're not familiar with current ratings of devices, 100 Ma isn't a lot.  There are some USB thumbdrives which require more than 100 Ma to function.  So a bus powered hub isn't much good for devices other than a mouse or keyboard or perhaps a low powered USB thumbdrive.

That makes a pretty strong case for choosing a self powered USB hub.  This can also be trickier than it sounds.  Those wall warts aren't always adequate on cheaper USB hubs.  I've seen 8 port USB hubs with a 1000 Ma power supply.  That doesn't leave the user much better off than using a bus powered hub.  So the rule of thumb here is look for a self powered USB hub with a minimum of 500 Ma per port which means an 8 port hub would require 4000 Ma or a 4 amp power supply.

You don't need to buy the most expensive USB hub but it can save time, money, and headaches in the long run if you choose something better than the least expensive.

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